27^th March 2026 – Seram Island

Another 2 day / 2 night sail followed my departure from Saumlaki.  Winds were again far more northerly than expected but lighter so the sailing was not too uncomfortable but a bit longer in duration and it did mean that there was a few hours of motoring towards the end.

Route Saumlaki to Tk Ingelas

I was aiming for the south east point of the island of Seram.  I had identified an anchorage just on the northern side as that would provide some degree of protection from the prevailing weather.  To get there necessitated passing through a narrow channel between the main island and an outlining smaller island.  This channel has significant tidal currents given the constriction it presents which unfortunately can generate very rough, but very localised conditions when there is a wind against tide situation.  Unfortunately I hit this at the wrong time and endured about 15mins of rough seas which was not too bad apart from just before the end where one wave reared up over the stern quarter and dumped itself into the cockpit soaking me at the helm and taking out my Ipad which I was using as a secondary navigation tool.  I was so close to coming through unscathed.

I dropped anchor for the night around 1700 in a small exposed bay just off Seram.  In reality the anchorage was too shallow and i only managed to scrape in due to Sea Otters very shallow draft, but I wanted to set down and get a decent nights rest.  Anchorages here in Indonesia are tricky as many are just too deep or they shelve very quickly leaving little swing room.  I carry about 75m of chain and so anything over 20mwater depth is a challenge.  Next day I moved north about 10Nm to a more suitable location just off an island called Pulau Akat to wait for a favourable weather window.

Next few days were spent relaxing on the boat and doing odd jobs.  There was a small village/town on the shore but it was a bit too far in the dingy given the weather.  I was anchored between the mainland and a small island and each night I would watch from the deck as hundreds of large bats took off from the island and made there way to the mainland presumably to feed.  These were big, some with wingspans not far off a meter.  Very spectacular.

I left the anchorage heading for Sorong on the Tuesday 24^th March however contrary winds again forced me back to Seram about 50Nm further up the coast in a place called Teluk Ingelas.  This is quite a nice anchorage and have now been here for the last three days.  I will try and strike out for Sorong again tomorrow.

Teluk Ingelas is a small village/town.  The main focus looks to be around a large ferry terminal which has had a number of vessels arrive and depart while I have been here.  I went ashore the first day and had a look around.  It looks typical provincial Indonesia – primarily wooden houses, crumbling infrastructure hewn out of the lush vegetation and most people looking pretty poor.  Chickens roam everywhere and many cats lounge around between the buildings but interestingly there are no dogs here - could be because its a predominantly muslim?  Any pools of water look pretty disgusting and are covered in garbage .  The people however are extremely friendly and polite  - unfortunately there is the language barrier but have been making great use of Google Translate.  

Ashore I was a huge hit with the kids as I doubt very many foreigners visit these places.  They mobbed me and then followed me around town shouting meeeester, meeester and trying to scrounge some money.

The kids in Tk Ingelas

Alem - my go to man for veggies

I managed to get some fresh vegetables but no fruit so next day I went further afield to Bula, a larger town about 10Km down the road and was more successful bagging watermelon, bananas and a pineapple.   I also bought a small fresh tuna for dinner – the first protein In have had for quite a while.

Bula was an interesting place – not pretty by any stretch of the imagination but it used to be an oil producing area and all the old “nodding donkey” pumps are still there on manmade sand spits off the shoreline.

Bula Oilfield Equipment

One thing that is endemic here is garbage.  It is everywhere.  I guess when every day is a personal struggle, cleaning up rubbish is pretty far down the list of daily priorities but it is a real shame to see the scale of it.  Some areas along the coast have plastic bottles and other detritus covering the ground almost 100% and others are clear and you can see how beautiful it can be.

Beach off Tk Ingelas

Early tomorrow morning I will head off again and try and make it across to Sorong.  Winds are light but may just be able to sneak through.

 16th March 2026 - Darwin to Indonesia

Upon reaching Darwin last year around late August I left Sea Otter at the Cullen Bay Marina supposedly for only two to four months.  I had a number of things to do onshore not least of which was to visit my aging mother in Denmark with Nik.  Nik came up to Darwin to help me mothball the boat and we had a very pleasant couple of weeks taking it easy on the boat and slowly packing all the gear away, decommissioning and making safe the various onboard systems and enjoying Darwin sights in the evenings

Back in Perth a number of events conspired to delay my return to the boat – we had a longer than expected, although most enjoyable, trip to Denmark, then I had a run in with prostate cancer which had to be addressed immediately.  Christmas and post op recovery followed and then early in 2026 sadly my mother passed and a return trip to Denmark was necessary to attend the funeral.  Given all this Sea Otter sat securely in her berth in Darwin even surviving tropical cyclone Fina unscathed.

I returned to the boat in Mid Feb and started to get her ready to sail again.  There was quite a list of work to carry out.  Nothing major though. I spent 10 days ticking off the items from my to do list and slowly melting away.  The heat and humidity in the top end is constant and I was living onboard the vessel in the marina so there is no respite.  In addition to that it was very wet just to compound the misery.  The marina is sheltered so even any breeze is mitigated by the marina surrounds.  My favourite time of the day was when I had knocked off in the late afternoon.  I would wander across the road from the marina and sit in a small park on the shoreline and bask in the cooling onshore breeze while reading a book.

I flew to Perth for a quick visit with the family and then returned to Darwin on March 4th.  This is not the season to be doing a crossing to Indonesia but I wanted to get the boat back out sailing and up to Irian Jaya to start cruising.  The North West monsoon winds have kicked in and there is a steady north westerly flow across the top of Australia and Arafura Sea which is far from ideal given that I need to get North.  There was a weather window coming up where the winds were more westerly than norwest and that I hoped gave me an opportunity.  Monday March 9^th was set as the departure date.

I scrambled to get the last of the onboard preparations completed including stocking up with foodstuffs and essential spares.  In addition I have bought all the antifouling paint for the next haul out which only just arrived in time given the flooding in the NT.  Also had to complete the departure formalities from Australia which were pretty straight forward and the arrival procedures for Indonesia which are a bit more involved.   I hired an agent in Indonesia to assist in preparation and submission of all documentation,

The immediate plan is to sail up to Raja Ampat – an area of Indonesia near Irian Jaya which has some spectacular scenery and marine life.  Once at Raja Ampat Nik will join the vessel for a couple of months as we cruise the islands.  First though I need to get the boat across to Indonesia and will sail initially to a place called Saumlaki on the island of Tanimbar directly due north of Darwin.

On Monday the 9^th March I threw off the mooring lines and moved out of Cullen Bay Marina onto the customs quay outside the marina lock gates.  The Australian Border Force officials visited the vessel, had a quick look around and then presented me with my outward clearance documentation.  Once formalities were complete they waited on the dock for me to leave.  I cast off around 11:00am on a grey showery day and headed out into Beagle Bay making for the Dundas Strait between Melville Island and the mainland.  That in itself is an 80NM sail through waters which are beset by strong tidal currents running up to 2knts to 3 knts at times.

Darwin to Saumlaki Route

 I am conscious that this is only the second time I have sailed the boat solo and so decided to take things really easy.  I anchored around 10:00pm on the mainland to get some sleep and then continued early Tuesday passing through the Straits late in the afternoon and into the Arafura Sea.  I set a course for Saumlaki and then settled down as best I could.

The next couple of days were pretty taxing being on my own and the fact that the weather was slightly more northerly than expected which meant I had to sail closer to the wind which exacerbates the movement of the vessel and makes it quite uncomfortable.  Not having been on the boat for a while I was also seasick – not debilitatingly so but enough to make you wonder why you do this.  Overall apart from being uncomfortable the crossing was pretty uneventful – had consistent 12 to 18knt winds from the north west with gusts to 23kts, a 2m sea and little rain.  I sighted Tanimbar late on Thursday afternoon and found a sheltered cove to anchor in overnight.  It is rare that I will anchor in a new location after dark but I just made it in using the last of the dusk light.  On the way in there were unlit fishing boats which I could not see and only knew they were there when they shone a flashlight at me.

The next morning I moved around the headland into the bay and motored into the Saumlaki Port anchorage just as a number of squalls moved through.  Got the anchor down on the second attempt and it held. 

Saumlaki town consists of buildings lining the shore and the sloping low hillsides behind the shoreline.  It is home to around 50,000 people.  There is a large passenger ferry jetty and an obvious church and mosque.  The island is predominantly Christian and Saumlaki is the major town on Tanimbar island.  It is also a dedicated port of entry hence why I chose to arrive here. I am the only yacht here – apart from it being out of season most yachts go to Ambon or Tual to clear in.

Saumlaki Waterfront - North side 

Saumlaki Harbour - South side

Once I got the boat squared away I launched the dingy and headed in to meet my agent Ken at the Malabar Indah Hotel.  Once there we met the quarantine guy at the hotel and handed over some papers and got some stamped papers in return.  Then it was off to immigration to hand over some more photocopies of passport, vessel registration, visa documents etc.  Then we broke for lunch and Ken took me on the back of his scooter to a local place for some Mee-goreng.  After lunch we met with customs and I had to ferry the customs officer to the boat where he had a cursory look around before deeming everything satisfactory.  Back to shore we went finished for the day but still having a couple of official things to do before I am good to push on which would not be completed until Monday.

Ken insisted on taking me to his local village called Wodondo down the coast.  We sped off on his scooter for the 30min journey which gave me a chance to see some of the island.  Its very lush and green and forested.  The village was pretty big and was all brick houses..  We met Kens' brothers and his father, sat and had some coffee and then sped back to the harbour where I got back onboard the boat for some rest.

Ken works for a shipping agency based in Tual.  He is a really nice guy - super helpful -  and I am glad I decided to use him.  He was telling me that he recently helped another sailor called Aaron Carrotta – this guy is rowing around the world if you can believe that.  So no more whinging from me about sailing being tough.  The locals seem very friendly from my brief walk around the town.  The infrastructure is all there but pretty badly in need of maintenance.  It reminds me of the streets of Samarinda when I was working in East Kalimantan but there are plenty of shops, stalls selling most of what I guess you would need.

I spent the weekend on the boat relaxing and doing boat things – there are always jobs to be done.  I had to get in the water and clean the hull and prop which had picked up some marine growth from the time in Darwin.  On Monday I met up with Ken again and finished the last bit of official business with the harbourmaster.  I was given what is called a green book which needs to be carried by the vessel whilst in Indonesian waters and was then all good to go.  There was time for a final lunch with Ken, some shopping for fresh vegetables and then I returned to the boat ready for a departure the following morning.

Waiting with Ken in the Harbour Masters Office

My plan evolves as I go.  Initially I had hoped for a big push to Saumlaki and then easy hops along island all the way to Raja Ampat.  Given the prevailing winds and forecasts though I have decided to make another 250NM push to the next staging point on the island of Seram. 

Hopefully the seasickness will abate.

FAD - Fish Aggregating Device - unlit and strewn all around the coastal waters

12/08/2025 Back to Oz.

As I write this I am approximately 150NM out of Darwin.  It is a clear clear night with a full moon and Sea Otter is running before a 20Kt wind on a calm sea doing up to 7.5kts.  I am very nearly at the end of this first excursion for the boat.

I left Gizo as scheduled on Saturday 26^th July.  The immigration guy came onboard early morning and carried out the necessary paperwork, slugged me a couple of hundred dollars for outboard fuel as he had to come out on a Saturday from the main town of Noro on a different island and then issued us the relevant approvals.  I made a quick trip into the markets to pick up some fresh provisions and finalized our outbound clearance with customs and then returned to the boat and weighed anchor.

The planned route was to head south west to round the Louisiade Archipelago (part of PNG) which would take approx. 2 days and then turn due west towards Australia for another five days to arrive at the Great Barrier Reef.  From there it is another day to navigate through the reef system and the Torres Straits to arrive at Thursday Island off Cape York which was the planned Port of Entry.  Once cleared I intended to push on immediately for Darwin.

The weather forecast we had was favourable for the most part.  After leaving Gizo the wind was very changeable and it was necessary to motor for extended periods of time between the wind dying and then filling in again.  The good news was the repaired autopilot worked faultlessly much to my relief.  Having the autopilot makes the passages infinitely more enjoyable.  Near the turning point at the Louisiades there was a patch where the boat motion got very uncomfortable but that only lasted for 6 to 12 hrs.  Rounding the Louisiades I poled out the jib and set the main on run – and that was how the sails stood for the next five days.  This was perfect trade wind sailing conditions and it was magic – following seas of 1 to 2m and constant winds between 15 to 20 kts.  Every now and then I had to take a reef or adjust the trim but apart from that the boat just sails quietly along.  Sea Otter is very impressive and was easily doing a constant 6kts with bursts of 7kts in the stronger wind.

View from the helm

The Great Barrier Reef is a pretty amazing natural wonder.  When you look at it on a chart you realise how huge it is and the vast area it occupies stretching not just 1,430NM north to South but also up to 150NM east to west.  I had to negotiate the reef to get access to the Torres Straits and spent a considerable amount of time prior to departing Gizo  looking for the right route.  Eventually I picked a lesser used route starting at an island called Raine Island and then weaving through the inner reefs.  As usual I was pretty wary of this stretch of the passage in part because, given the length, I would have to do one nights sailing in the reef.

Raine Island came into view as planned at dusk on the 1^st August after an uneventful sail for the previous 5 days.  We entered the reef as night fell and followed the route I had mapped out.  There were some very shallow patches but generally given the modern navigational aids I have on the boat it turned out to be a relatively straightforward passage albeit one which required pretty constant focus.

By mid morning on the 2^nd I was through the reef and sailing off Cape York and the outlying islands that make up the Torres Strait in near perfect conditions heading towards Thursday Island.   There were a couple of other sailing boats around but by and large we were on our own until Thursday Island came into view.  We announced our arrival to the port authorities and as anticipated were instructed to anchor and await the arrival of customs/immigration and biosecurity personnel which would not be until Monday morning.  Until then we were instructed to remain onboard the vessel.  We dropped anchor off the town in the afternoon in a windy anchorage and settled in to wait for the authorities.

Thursday Island is an administrative centre for this area.  The Torres Straits are a major shipping thoroughfare and given the environmental sensitivities marine pilots are mandatory for much of the commercial shipping and these are staged out of TI.  There is not much to the town but from the anchorage it looked very neat and orderly after having been in the islands for the last three months.

We were cleared in on Monday morning by very efficient and courteous Australian Border Force personnel.  They looked the boat over, took away some remaining fresh food which was still onboard and then gave us our clearance. 

Free to leave the vessel I went ashore and bought some food.  There is only one supermarket on TI but this was like a mega store to me having left the shops in the Solomons and Vanuatu.  The shop was airconditioned and the selection of food whilst standard for Australia was really novel for me.  It was great to be back in Australia seeing familiar signs and hearing familiar accents.

Once back onboard we set sail for Darwin, another 7 days away from where I will write the final chapter in this trip for this year.

25 July 2025: A Quick Passage through the Western Provinces

I sailed the 30NM from Honiara across Iron Bottom Sound to the Florida Islands on Tuesday the 16^th July and it was as if I was transported to a whole other universe.  The Honiara traffic, noise, dirt and chaos was replaced by peaceful, remote island solitude.

I pulled into a place called Roderick Bay which I had read about during my limited research.  An enterprising local had stuck down a couple of moorings for use by visiting yachts and as I entered the bay a young guy in a dug out canoe waved me toward the mooring and helped with securing Sea Otter.

Roderick Bay is a fairly large bay at the northern end of the largest island in the group called Nogella Sule.  As usual the entrance is lined with coral reefs and there are more inside.  The moorings are opposite a small one family (extended) village but you would hardly know they were there.  The main claim to fame of Roderick Bay is the wreck of the expedition cruise ship World Discoverer which now lies at one end of the bay and which is something of a tourist attraction.

Roderick Bay

Sea Otter Moored in Roderick Bay

Once settled on the mooring we were visited by a couple of locals in dug outs trying to trade food for any useful items we had such as food, batteries, clothing etc. This would be ongoing not just here but other stops in the Solomons.  I had read about the trading and so had some items already set aside.  The main articles for trade  from the village were food i.e. bananas, pomelo, eggplant, coconut etc however we also got a couple of crayfish while we were there.  In return we traded fish hooks, soccer balls, pens, notebooks, batteries, sugar, rice etc and paid cash for the seafood.  I am not a very good trader as even if they showed me items that I did not want I would still go ahead and hand over stuff they could use.  One elderly man had his grand kids paddle him out to ask for some teabags – really little things to us can mean a lot to them.

Trading Teabags

The second day on the mooring we went ashore and spoke with Joseph and Robert Ruka who were the sons of the headman John Ruka.  They then took us on a tour of the village and down to the wreck site of the World Discoverer where we were narrated the story of its demise.  The tour was really interesting and especially to see how these people live.  Their life is a very simple one and they do not have much but most prefer to live in the villages than in a place like Honiara.  There are schools for the kids maybe not in each village but certainly within the area, there is a medical clinic and they can trade some of what they produce in the markets of Honiara when required.  Their food is simple and at hand either in their gardens or in the sea.  

The two days we spent here were for me idyllic – life really slowed down.  There was not a lot to do apart from swimming and snorkeling (which was fantastic) or visiting the village.  During the day it was hot with occasional brief showers and at night it cooled off and an inky black quietness descended on the bay.  The night skies were amazing given the lack of ambient light and the water around the baot was often full of different types of luminescence.  The occasional chats with the villagers during the trading bouts or when we had to go to get water ashore were always really interesting.  The people are so friendly.

The Cooking Hut

One of the sleeping huts

The wreck of the World Discoverer was quite an amazing sight – the hull is in very shallow water close to the beach and has rolled onto its port side.  The jungle is starting to take it over and it looks like a film set from Jurrassic Park.  When it hit the reef about twenty years ago it had over 200 people onboard who were all evacuated.  Salvage attempts were hampered by political tensions in the country at the time and so the decision was made by the insurers to abandon the hull.

The Wreck of the World Discoverer

Sadly after a couple of days at Roderick Bay we had to keep pressing on.  It was sad to leave even though we had only had a brief visit.  We sailed overnight to the Morovo Lagoon and found an anchorage just inside the fringing reef.  There was already a small catamaran anchored there.  We have seen very few other cruising yachts since our time in the Solomons.  There were not that many in Vanuatu either but here I think we have seen three including this cat.  It was not long before we had some locals around us looking to trade.  This time it was wood carvings.  The main island of Vangunu is famous for its wood carvings and I was happy to find a few pieces which I liked.  Some were paid for with cash and for others it was a trade.

Morovo Lagoon

I should have spent more time looking around the lagoon – it is a designated World Heritage area - but I was eager to get to Gizo and so next day we motored around to the other side of the lagoon. Really interesting journey as the lagoon is full of small islands, coral reefs and the seabed can go from 50m to zero in a heartbeat.  We spent the night just inside the western side of the fringing reef and next day motored to Rendova Island about 35NM North and the last stop before Gizo.

We anchored in Rendova harbour in front of another village of about 400 and again had a warm reception from a number of canoes with lots of kids.  Managed to speak with a couple of the older men about the history of Rendova Harbour which was fascinating.  It was an American base during the war and its main claim to fame was that this is the area that JFK had his exploits with PT109.  He was in command of a PT boat and was out one night nearby in Blackett Strait on a mission and to cut a long story short his boat got rammed by a Japanese destroyer and sunk.. He managed to lead the survivors to a nearby island and over the next few days he swam to other islands to get food and water and eventually help.  Two locals had been dispatched to try and find him and after a few days they were located, rescued and brought back to Rendova harbour.  Apparently he later visited and met the two guys who had found him.  I think they were boy scouts.

Warm Reception at Rendova

The next day we motored another 35NM to Gizo the final stop in the Solomons.  Once again we were the only yacht in the harbour.  Gizo harbour is well protected by outlying islands and reefs and we dropped anchor towards the head of the harbour off a premises called PT109  which is a bit of a well known hangout. 

I went ashore immediately to check out the town and to get started on some of the chores I had to do.  We took Wee Otter into the PT109 wharf and tied her up at the rough quayside.  PT109 has obviously fallen from its prime.  It’s a restaurant/bar but the decline in the Gozo based tourist trade has taken its toll.  But you can still get a meal and a beer here and there are a couple of really helpful ladies who run /own the place.

Gizo Main Street

I paid a visit to the customs office and after some dialogue managed to organise for our check out to be carried out on Saturday (26^th July) morning immediately prior to our departure.  Next I headed to the Solomon Airlines office to track down the autopilot which was being uplifted from Honiara for delivery to Gizo.  A nice man called Greg said he would text me once it arrived.  Finally I visited Dive Gizo and organized a dive trip for the 24^th.  I had dinner and a couple of beers at PT109 and then called it a night.

On the Thursday as arranged I joined a coupe of other people and took off into the nearby Vona Vona Lagoon for a days diving.  We dived on a couple of reef walls which were pretty spectacular with lots of marine life including rays and sharks.  We also dived on a Hellcat fighter aircraft from World War 2 which sits on the bottom the right way up.  In between the dives the guides took us to visit a place called Skull Island.  As the name suggests the island was used as a ceremonial place for local chiefs and warriors and some of their victims.  There is a large coral mound /altar which is covered in skulls.  Its pretty interesting.

Skull Island

So its Friday night now and I am all set for the 1400NM passage to Darwin which we will start tomorrow morning.  We have a favourable forecast for the first leg to Thursday Island where we will carry out the check in procedures with the relevant Australian authorities.  I fitted the repaired autopilot today and it seems to be working but need a sea trial to confirm.  We fuelled up today and topped off the water tanks so will run out to the market tomorrow and get some fresh fruit and veg and then depart.  Next stop Australia.  

The Solomons has been a fantastic experience and I cannot recommend it enough.  I think the only way to see it is by boat though.  The scenery is spectacular and the people are freindly and genuine - its a shame it cannot capitalise on more tourism.

21st July 2025: Into The Solomon Islands

I have moved on a fair way since the last post with, I guess an increasing desire to get this trip concluded sooner rather than later for no good reason other than I miss Nik and the kids.  It seems in one way like the waste of a good opportunity but this was always just an extended delivery trip and I am nevertheless enjoying seeing these Pacific Islands.  I never had time to carry out the prior research necessary before you cruise in these areas so I was always just going to be briefly visiting.

We left Lugganville and sailed overnight to a place called Sola on the island of Vanua Lava, one of the Banks Islands.  Sola is the most northerly Port of Entry.  We arrived mid morning and anchored in a pretty bay with a small town located behind the beachfront.  There was not much to the town – a few buildings and houses stretching down the coastal road with one or two small shops selling a few essentials.  Once ashore I located the customs office and was horrified to hear that the customs officer required to sign off on departures was in Lugganville.  I thought this was going to lead to a long delay but turns out they could send the departure forms to Lugganville and he would sign off and email back.  After a couple of hours I was authorized to depart and we left late that afternoon heading for Lata, the first Port of Entry for the Solomon Islands on the island of Ndendo about 230NM to the north.

The Solomons is not a popular cruising destination at this point in time although it would appear to be gaining more attention.  Most of the best cruising and hence the best tourist infrastructure is in the Western Provinces.  Due to us coming from Vanuatu we had to first transit through the eastern islands and districts.

The sail over the following two days was rolly and punctuated by frequent showers especially at night but apart from that largely uneventful.  I will be glad to start sailing west once we leave Lata as that will be more with the weather which should reduce the roll we experience significantly.  On the morning of the second day Ndendo was in sight.  There is a narrow reef lined passage on the western side into the large bay where Lata is located.  Looked a lot tighter than it was but constant vigilance is required.  The jetty which the cruising guide suggested we should tie up to was a mess of twisted concrete – clearly our guide was a bit out of date.  Around the jetty anchoring was problematic as the seabed went from very deep to coral reef in a few metres and we had an onshore breeze.  Eventually we set the anchor in about 15m of water with our stern about 20m from the reef.  Not a particularly desirable location but adequate for the limited time we intended to spend here.

Again I went ashore and sought out the entry officials.  Lata is a small town and the infrastructure is pretty poor.  It would appear that this is a step down in terms of poverty from Vanuatu.  One of the first things you noticed was the trash lying around.  There were a lot of people milling around the jetty area mainly associated with the “banana boats” ferrying people and supplies around and a few small market type stalls selling the usual ground provisions and coconuts.  Everybody was very friendly and in no time the boat was surrounded by a group of noisy kids who had swam out from shore all wanting to say hello to the strangers.  One of the first things you notice is that lots of people are chewing betelnut and the ground is frequently marked by the red juice spat out.

I asked directions to customs and immigration and was kindly given a lift up the hill to the customs house.  This was essentially a single storey maybe four room building with very little in the way of furniture apart from a couple of desks and chairs with a single lap top and some other papers lying about.  I filled in a few forms, answered a few questions and then was handed my cruising permit valid for 30 days.  I wandered back to the jetty hoping to find a bank or a forex dude but no such luck.

Vessel Track from Vanuatu to Solomons

Back onboard I decided to push on as the present anchorage was not really tenable.  In the early afternoon we retraced our path through the western pass and set a course west to San Cristobal Island another 220NM plus away aiming for a place called Kirakira.  Another showery passage ensued but this time we were running with the weather and so our roll was reduced considerably.  Two days later we reached Kirakira.  There was no real reason for stopping here apart from to get some local money and to procure some fresh produce. 

All these places are built around the coastline of a bay with the town/village stretching someway inland depending upon how quickly the land rises behind the coast.  Kirakira was no exception.  Ashore there was a reasonable market in operation just behind the beach area where all the “banana boats” were congregated.  Again the town is quite small and run down.  There are a few shops, a school a large overgrown playing field and, of course, a church.  There is a river which runs down one side and empties into the bay – it could be really pretty but again there was a lot of trash lying around.  I located the bank pretty quickly but was told that I could not use a credit card to get funds and they would not be able to exchange foreign currency.  So strike two – still no local money and no fresh food.  There was nothing for it but to push onto Honiara the capital and the gateway to the Western Provinces.

Honiara sits on the island of Guadalcanal a name resplendent with images of the Pacific campaigns of World War Two.  In fact the Solomon Islands were right in forefront of the war with the Japanese. 

Honiara was a good 20hr sail away.  Given the constant sailing for the past six days I decided to stay the night at anchor in Kirakira to get some rest.  At noon the next day we departed amidst frequent heavy rain showers and plotted a course more North than West.  Due to the wind direction I had to head north till the early hours of the morning at which time I gybed round onto the heading for Honiara.  Apart from the rain it was a really enjoyable sail and the morning found us sailing up Iron Bottom Sound slowly approaching Honiara.

Honiara is the capital of the Solomon Islands and is quite a major town for the region.  It spreads out along the coast quite extensively and whilst there is a harbour it is really just a stretch of the coast.  There is no protected bay or cove.  Near the centre of town there is a small indent formed by Point Cruz called Mbokona Bay which houses a couple of small commercial jetties for the Solomons coastal patrol boat and ferries and a beach where the trading banana boats pull up.  Allegedly there was space to anchor within.  We came into Mbokona Bay while there was a swell running which did nothing to add to the appeal of the anchorage.  The bay is lined by reef so manoeuvring was very tight.  There was a mooring right in the middle of the bay which made finding space very difficult.  I had a couple of goes at anchoring but was not satisfied and so kept motoring around. 

Mbokono Bay

After a while as I was setting up for my third attempt I got a VHF call telling me to just go ahead and pick up the mooring which I duly did.  There is a building on the shore called the Point Cruz Yacht Club.  Interesting as there were no yachts around apart from another cruiser.  I think it may be more in the spirit of yachting that in the actual activity.  When I visited later it turned out to be essentially a bar on the shore but it does have a membership requirement.

Anyway one of the blokes there obviously was watching me mess about and decided to come to my aid.  Am thankful that he did.  Tried to find him the next day at the club but never managed to.

As we were coming into Honiara the one thing that you really notice is the amount of trash in the water.  I guess it was a falling tide but its really quite disappointing.  Onshore the city itself was not a whole lot better.  As with many of towns here it consists of a main street parallel with the coast and full of shops and businesses.  Honiara would be the busiest town i have been in since Auckland.  Its very noisy, dusty, run down and chaotic to an outsider.  It is very busy but also has a certain energy about it.  For all its detractions I felt it would be a pretty interesting place to explore at another time.  The central market is huge with lots on interesting fruit, veg and fish for sale.  Very importantly for me there was a bank from which I managed to get some local currency. 

Sunset from Point Cruz

Honiara was always just about getting some money and fresh food.  Once that was complete the next morning we departed for the Florida Islands about 30NM across the sound.  The plan was to relax and enjoy a bit of seclusion for a couple of days before continuing the ever westward journey.

There was one other reason for visiting Honiara and that was to sort out freight for the autopilot unit which was ready for dispatch from Perth.  Have organised for it to be delivered to a place called Gizo which is our exit port from the Solomons.

16 July 2025: Awesome Adventures in Vanuatu

You would think that I would have all the time in the world to write a couple of pages for the blog each week but somehow time gets away from me.  It seems there is always something to do either on the boat or in the places we stop at and while I am sailing it has not been conducive to writing.  There is also the schedule imperative (i.e. Darwin by mid August) which drives me to continually move on to the next place.  Probably wasting good sightseeing opportunities but this is the route I have chosen for the time being.

So in the last blog post I had just arrived in Port Villa. I ended up staying about three days and spent them having a brief look around the town and getting the usual chores out of the way i.e. laundry, re stocking with fresh food and other requirements, filling up with gas, chasing down elusive parts and consumables and catching up with boat admin.  Also have been manually filling up with water when we can.  I have a watermaker onboard but I mothballed it in NZ and so far have not seen the necessity of re commissioning the unit.  The issue is that once running I need to run the unit every two or three days to keep the membrane in good health but the system uses quite a bit of power so its easier just now to leave it mothballed.  So far we have been able to access water as and when required and just use 20litre jerry cans to fill up the boats tanks. There's a bit of labour involved but that’s just good exercise for me.

Port Villa is an interesting place but nothing particularly outstanding about it apart from the setting around the bay which forms a natural harbour.  I guess most tourists fly into Port Villa and then are transported to resorts around the island.  I did not see too much apart from the centre which consists of a main thoroughfare lined with shops and businesses.  There was a really bad earthquake here in Dec 2024 which caused a lot of damage and this followed earlier cyclones and earthquakes which had hit in the last 20 plus years and so there is a lot of reconstruction work going on.  I did make a couple of trips further afield chasing parts and utilized the local minibuses.  Once you know the systems its great – you can get anywhere for 150Vatu ($1.50) and the locals are really friendly and like to chat.

Port Villa main food market

The last night in Port Villa I had a beer and dinner with Peter my Bulgarian crew in the yacht club right on the edge of the harbour.  We left Port Villa around midday on the 28^th June after taking on some fuel as am unsure where the next opportunity to do this will be.  .The next main destination was a place called Lugganville on the island of Espritu Santo the biggest in the Vanuatu archipelago about 160NM to the north.  We first headed to the north of Efate Island and overnighted in a nice protected bay called Port Havannah.  Then the next day pushed on to the north of the next island called Epi.  We anchored in Lamen Bay.  i had chosen this place as there were reputedly some dugong here.  Spent the night here and the next day dugong spotting but only managed to see a massive tail as one dived.  That evening we commenced the final leg of the passage to Lugganville which was 100NM.  It took slightly longer than anticipated due to the weather but by 4;30pm on the 1^st of July we were secure on a mooring on the opposite side of the channel from Lugganville. 

Lugganville is the main town on the island of Espiritu Santo which is the biggest of the Vanuatu islands.  It is on the south side of the island and somewhat protected by a couple of offlying islands to its south which form a wide sound.  The problem is that when the weather gets up the fetch across the sound between Lugganville and the islands is long enough to make anchoring on the Lugganville side uncomfortable.  Therefore I opted to take a mooring off one of the islands, Aore, across from Lugganville to provide a calmer anchorage.  The moorings were just off a place called the Aore Adventure Sports and Lodge a small dive operation run by an Australian couple.  I also wanted to do a couple of dives so this was perfect.  Just next door to the dive place was another resort with accommodation.

Aore Moorings

The first day after arriving I went ashore and spoke with Paul White who runs the dive operation and made plans to dive the following day.  Then it was off into town for a look around.  The distance to town was too long for the Wee Otter so we used a local “banana boat to ferry us over.  These boats are essentially open 20ft fiberglass vessels with an outboard and are everywhere and used like taxi’s all over Vanuatu carrying out local trips and longer inter island passages. 

Lugganville town was pretty busy but comprises one main road running along the coast lined with shops and businesses.  Down one end is a big market selling fresh vegetables and fruit. On the outskirts there are a couple of resorts/hotels catering to tourists – a lot of whom come from the Eastern states of Australia. There are ATM’s and a couple of internet cafes and then lots of shops selling bits and pieces of everything mostly run by the Chinese.  There was one “western “ supermarket but you could find most of what you needed in the other shops and the market.  The town looks run down with not much investment going on.  Its very dusty and when it rains there is mud everywhere.  A steady stream of traffic trundles down the main street all day.  I had a look around , bought some provisions and then headed back to the boat.

Lugganville Main Street

Julianno - our banana boat driver

Next day was a 7;00am start.  I joined Paul, a couple of his divemasters and five other divers onboard the dive boat.  We headed out across the sound to a wreck called the President Coolidge.  The President Coolidge was a 650ft cruise liner being used as a troop transport ship during the second world war.  It was coming in to Lugganville when it struck a mine.  The captain rammed the vessel into shore which allowed all 5,000 plus personnel to abandon the ship safely.  However the seabed topography was such that it the vessel eventually slid backwards down a steep slope and came to rest in 30m to 70m of water lying on her port side.  The dive site is pretty famous.  

We moored over the bow of the vessel and descended onto the vessel side.  The vis was tremendous and you could clearly make out the sunken vessel.  Due to the size of the wreck we only really looked around the bow area.  The dive was spectacular – the whole wreck is covered in coulorful coral with sea life all around you.  You can see the remnants of army vehicles which were being carried in the vessel holds, ordinance from small arms to gun emplacements on deck and different rooms on the vessel.  

We ended up doing two dives on the wreck – both absolutely stunning.  I had not dived for many years.  I kind of lost the enthusiasm for it a while ago but when opportunities like this are presented it is really worthwhile.

The next day, Friday, I had booked to visit the Millennium Cave.  This was a bit of a adventure hike.  As it turned out it got delayed due to island admin issues but luckily on the following day I was picked up by the trek organisers and along with eight others transported about 45kms into the interior.  I had read about this trip so kind of knew what was coming but even so it was a bit of an ordeal.  The first leg involved a ride up to the trailhead.  This was in a twin cab ute – so OK for the four in the cab but the rest had to stick it out on boards laid across the tray and open to the weather.  Luckily I was in the cab.  It was about a 75min drive to to the trailhead.  The distance is not that far but out of Lugganville the roads were atrocious and the last 10Km was just a muddy rutted track.  Upon reaching the end of the road we disembarked and then walked to the village of Vunaspef.  The villagers here are the traditional owners of the Millennium cave.  We were kitted out with buoyancy vests and then the real trek started.  

Vunaspef Village

For the next two hours we traversed very slippery muddy tracks through the forests.  Where the terrain got steep rickety wooden ladder type constructions had been laid to help the climbing and descending.  There was no avoiding the mud and it reminded me of the Kokoda track.  After two hrs we stopped for a brief rest where the guides painted our faces with red clay paste to ensure a safe passage through the cave.  Another five minutes took us to the opening of the cave which from a distance is unremarkable but as you get closer it becomes very impressive.  We descended into the darkness and were each provided with torches.  The cave is huge and has a river running through it.  Slowly we left the entrance and proceeded into the darkness wading through the river, clambering over boulders covered in bat shit. 

Safe Passage Guarantee

Cave Entrance

The cave is amazing – its quite narrow but very tall.  There are crazy rock formations soaring up to the roof which occasionally has collapsed allowing a glimpse of light through the screening forest.  Lots of stalactites and stalagmites line the walls.  A large colony of bats and swallows inhabits the cave and these flit about constantly.  The traverse of the cave was quite slow due to the wading and scrambling required and went on for about another hour and was probably about 1km long.  Eventually we came to the end of the cave where the river joined another river flowing through the forest.  At the mouth of the cave the water deepened and we had to wade neck deep through the water.  We emerged from the cave and took a lunch break at the side of the river,

Inside the cave

The Cave Exit

After lunch it was canyoning.  We clambered over boulders and dropped into the river and swam/floated/waded/ clambered downstream through a series of narrow gorges with sheer rock sides covered with jungle.  After about an hour to two hours of this we came out to another muddy slippery track and walked this for about an hour back to the starting point at Vunaspef.  We were give some tea/coffee/fruit in a hut and then walked back to the waiting transport at and driven back into town.  

Awesome day out.

Canyoning

Canyoning

The following day (Sunday 6th July) I left Lugganville and started the passage to Sola on the island of Ndendo where I would check out from Vanuatu and begin the journey to the Solomon Islands.