18th Aug 2026: Back Onboard / Bawean Island

Looking back its been a while since the last post.  Most of that time has been spent ashore finishing our time in Lombok and then moving across to Bali for a week.  It was great to be onshore enjoying the comforts of hotel life with NIk, having everything on tap and not having to worry about boat things for a while.  Our schedule was very relaxed and our only commitment was a yoga class every morning which we had done on Lombok and continued in Bali and watching the sunset.  Nik flew home on the 8th August and I moved back onto the boat the next day.

I had not been to Bali for 10years.  The last time I was here it was so busy that I was put off returning anytime.  This time I was surprised that whilst it is still busy it did not seem as bad.  In addition, it seems much cleaner that it was.  Even though its not my scene there is no doubt that it is a magical place and even with all the tourist development and associated ills, sitting on Kuta beach with a beer watching the sunset over the Bali Sea and a relentless wave breaking on the beach is special – and it happens every night.

Enjoying Bali and being off the boat

Sea Otter was just as we had left her and she was essentially ready to depart.  I just had to stock up on food and welcome onboard Abi, who will be crewing from Lombok to Malaysia.  I took a car into Mataram on the Monday 10th Aug and completed a whirlwind of a shopping trip and picked up Abi who had travelled down from her home on the Gilli’s. 

The next day we slipped our mooring and headed away from the marina.  The first day we just motored across to Gilli Asahan and anchored.  I did not feel ready to start the sail across to Bawean Island and this gave us a chance to settle down and make sure we were ready to go to sea. I think my unease is in no small measure due to Nik’s absence as she helps me get ready for sea and acts as a secondary check for me. It also gave Abi a chance to get used to the boat and for us to get to know each other.  Abi is English and works as a freelance travel blogger but lives in the Gilli’s.  She will be blogging the trip aswell but more diligently and professionally I suspect. (this is the link to her Instagram Account AbigailCarolina.Dalton)  Abi has brought a drone with her so am looking at getting some spectacular pictures of the boat. 

The plan is to head towards Malaysia stopping at a few of the islands in the Java Sea on the way before a final sail up the Malacca Straits to Lumut just north of KL.  The islands are typically out of the way stops that would generally be off the popular tourist trail such as Baewan Island, the Karimunjawa National Park and Biliton Island. 

The final leg for this year - Lombok to Lumut

On the 12th August at a decent time in the morning we headed out into the Lombok Strait.  Almost immediately we picked up radio traffic from a vessel responding to a Mayday call south of Bali and about three hrs south of our position.  They were assisting at a ferry fire where many people were in the water.  My VHF would not get past the land so we motored west to get a clear line of sight and called the vessel.  By that time more rescue vessels had arrived on the scene and recovery of personnel was well underway.  Since it was going to take us three hrs to get there it was deemed not necessary to attend.   First time I have had a Mayday call.

We turned north and headed towards the Bali Sea.  Once we cleared Bali the wind picked up and we spent the next two days sailing with a following wind all the way to Bawean Island about 270NM away off the coast of Java.  The sailing was great but the wind was directly astern so a bit rolly.  In hindsight I should have put in two big gybes instead but am always worried if I pick one side the wind will swing in the wrong direction and end up slowing us down.

We managed to get into our anchorage at Teluk Jati, Dedwang on the north coast of Baewan just before sunset on the 15th August.  It’s a beautiful big protected bay although we are a bit far out as there is coral reef stretching from the shore quite a way out.  We spent the first day relaxing on the boat, catching up on various admin tasks and organizing a tour of the island for the following day.  A trip in to look around the village was undertaken later in the day and where we beached the dingy there was a small warung where the ladies and kids made us so welcome we stayed for dinner.


Teluk Jati Warung and Colourful Chanel Marks

The next day Abi and I met up with DJ and An our tour guides for the day.  They had organized two scooters and together we came up with an itinerary.  First stop was a lake in the hills about an hours ride away followed by a 20min walk.  After a quick freshwater swim we pushed onto a small port on the east coast and took a local fishing boat across to a place called Noko Island.  This is a tiny sand cay covered in pine trees.  Very picturesque apart from the garbage washed up on the shores.  We had a few hours here swimming, snorkeling and flying the drone before heading back into the main island.  On the way back DJ and An stopped at a friend of theirs house so we could shower and then we had a meal with them.  It was really special.  Finally we sped back to Tanjung Jali. 

At the Lake

Rice Terraces

Mosque Behind Rice Fileds

Abi DJ and An and our scooters

Noko Island

Bawean Island is really beautiful and best seen from a scooter.  The terrain is very lush and hilly and the roads provide endless scenic views over rice fields, hills and the coast.  The island is called the island of women because most of the males leave to find work abroad or on the other major islands like Java and Sumatra and there are certainly a noticeable excess of women.  The island looks quite wealthy as the houses are all brick and tile and in good repair, the roads are good and you see very little in the way of poverty.  The people who we met and passed were all super friendly and everyone smiled and wanted pictures taken with us. This is such a cool spot to visit.  It kind of feels like the real Indonesia.  We could easily have spent a few more days here exploring and enjoying the extraordinary hospitality of the people.



We push on tomorrow for Karimunjawa National park about 130Nm to the west.  

No comments:

Post a Comment